This was a real nature lover’s dream that has come true. Lago Deseado (“Desired or Wishful Lake”) in the rough, wild south of the Big Island of Tierra del Fuego has crystal clear waters, is surrounded by dense Nothofagus forests and steep mountains and on its southern shores, lies the very hospitable Lodge Deseado. This area is indeed a gem, that invites to be explored, discovered and enjoyed. Lago Deseado Tierra del Fuego Nature
Already the journey to Lago Deseado might be a special experience for many guests. From Punta Arenas, one first needs to cross the Straits of Magellan. There is a ferry heading directly to the small city of Porvenir. It’s also possible to take the ferry service in a much narrower part of the Straits, called Primera Angostura.
From either place, there is a subsequent 4 hour ride mainly over gravel roads through the steppe. However, attentive travelers may find a lot to discover even in this barren looking landscapes. Guanacos are ubiquitous. Every now and then, one passes a flock of sheep, which easily may contain several thousand animals. Who travels with time can make a stop at the King Penguin Nature Reserve in Bahía Inútil (“Useless Bay”). Furthermore, there is an impressive accumulation of erratic blocks in the southern part of that same geological basin, in which Bahía Inútil is located. Retreating glaciers left them behind thousands of years ago, at the end of the last glacial period. Lago Deseado Tierra del Fuego Nature
Arriving at Pampa Guanaco, one discerns a drastic change of the surrounding landscape. This hamlet lies very close to Karukinka Park. This park aims at protecting and conserving the wild southwestern part of Tierra del Fuego Island. During the last hour of our journey, from Pampa Guanaco to Lago Deseado, we drive through dense woodlands and past rivers, lakes and mountains.
Lago Deseado Lago Deseado Tierra del Fuego Nature
That’s exactly how the Lodge Deseado’s environment looks like. The timber work of this cosy, hospitable accommodation lies amid untouched, healthy nature. Lago Deseado is a long drawn-out lake, orientated fairly exactly east-west. The well pronounced U-shape of this valley reveals that this area used to be covered by glaciers for long periods of time and was modeled by their erosion. There, where the erosional forces were strongest and/or the present rocks weakest, originated lakes. Lago Deseado, the bigger one of the two lakes in this natural depression, has a length of some 6 miles. Río de la Turba drains it. The area where the river leaves the lake, is already Argentinian territory. Finally, after about 52 miles, the Río de la Turba discharges into the Río Grande and ultimately into the Atlantic Ocean. Lago Deseado Tierra del Fuego Nature
Now, the interesting thing is, that only a few miles west of Lago Deseado there is another lake (Lago Despreciado) in the same geographical depression. The distance between the two lakes is negligible. This zone, however, accommodates a crucial geographical element, to wit a watershed. Hence, Lago Despreciado drains via the Almirantazgo Fjord into the Straits of Magellan and thus into the Pacific. Lago Deseado Tierra del Fuego Nature
Lago Deseado is embedded into an untouched, dense Nothofagus forest, which is very characteristic for this part of Patagonia. The Lenga (Nothofagus pumilio) is the dominant species. However, there are also Coigues (Nothofagus dombeyi) and some scattered Ñirre (Nothofagus antarctica).
Enriching excursions Lago Deseado Tierra del Fuego Nature
Andrés, the young and convivial director of the lodge, takes us out for a trip on his rigid-inflatable boat. He explains us a lot about the local fauna, flora, geography and history. Until some 100 years ago, this used to be an eminent living area for the Selk’am. It makes me feel impressed and sad at once when I imagine how native folks used to live here in their very traditional way only three generations ago.
We go ashore on the very eastern edge of the lake, in the borderlands between Chile and Argentina. Now, in autumn, lots of fungi spring out of the ground. We also indulge in fresh calafate berries (Berberis microphylla), picking them directly from the bushes. We see and hear different birds, such as White-crested Elaenia (Elaenia albiceps), Chilean Hawk (Accipiter chilensis), Neotropic Cormorant (Phalacrocorax brasilianus) and Ringed Kingfisher (Megaceryle torquata).
Suddenly we step out of the forest and in front of us appear impressive moorlands. Matching to the season, they have already been changing their coloring and thus shine in an amazingly bright red. With their unique conditions for living, moorlands are an important habitat for numerous specialized insect and plant species.
Stunning wildlife Lago Deseado Tierra del Fuego Nature
It’s highly exciting to observe in what a different environment the guanacos live here. Basically this feral camelid species is native to open grasslands. The animals there have to adapt to very dry conditions and strong winds are almost omnipresent. Here however, in the south of the Big Island of Tierra del Fuego, the guanacos live in the forest and/or on the shores of rivers and lakes. It seems that food is more abundant here and doubtlessly the vital water, too. Yet, if live here really is easier? I dare to put a question mark to this. Moving in the woodlands might be anything else but more comfortable, as the Nothofagus forest are characterized by dense vegetation and a lot of deadwood on the ground.
We stroll back to the boat, from where we continue our trip on Lago Deseado and along its shores. We marvel at the view of the deep green vegetation carpet, which, on its upper limits, abruptly goes over into cragged rocks. High above the mountain tops, we catch sight of three Andean Condors (Vultur gryphus) gliding majestically and steadily through the air. Lago Deseado Tierra del Fuego Nature
We didn’t bring any fishing gear, and honestly, we don’t rue it at all. However, enthusiastic fishermen from near and far know about the high fishing quality of Lago Deseado. It’s one of the best lakes of whole Tierra del Fuego for practicing their passion. Lago Deseado Tierra del Fuego Nature
At about half way of the lake, we make another stop and go ashore again. There are two different “strawberry” species growing here. One of them, the Rufus geoides, is delicious and has an amazingly fruity-sweet taste. But, look out! There is another similar looking plant, which is also very common to this area. It’s called the “Devil’s Strawberry” (Spanish: Frutilla del Diablo; Gunnera magellanica). As its name correctly suggests, latter is quite poisonous. Therefore, please don’t even think about tasting it, even though it looks very tempting. Lago Deseado Tierra del Fuego Nature
Nature here is so diverse and interesting that we almost forget where we are. We walk through the forest, marveling and enjoying. We don’t even really notice the sound of plashy water which is getting louder and louder. All of a sudden, we stand in front of a thundering waterfall. How beautiful!
After an extremely tasty mushroom soup and a short siesta at the lodge, we get ready again for exploring the surroundings. We’ll walk to a viewpoint on the northern shore of Lago Deseado. It takes us about an hour to get there. On the way, there are so many exciting things to see and to experience. Besides all the berries, fungi and trees which are characteristic for this part of Patagonia, we spot a massive beaver lodge. The North American beaver (Castor canadensis) was brought to Tierra del Fuego for its fur in the 1940s. As it doesn’t have any natural predators here, it has been expanding undampedly and its numbers have multiplied. It’s sad to see that once again mankind introduced an exotic species that promptly started to harm dramatically the local ecosystem. Nevertheless, it’s still very impressive, what huge trees this rodent may chop down and relocate in order to build its lodge and dams. Lago Deseado Tierra del Fuego Nature
Seno Almirantazgo Lago Deseado Tierra del Fuego Nature
On the following day, our alarm clock rings well before the crack of dawn. We’ll head to Caleta María, a hamlet on the eastern shore of Almirantazgo Fjord. From here a small motor boat brings us, together with a small group of fishermen, to Bahía La Paciencia (“Pacience Bay”). This cove is the estuary of the river which drains Lago Despreciado. At the beginning of the 20th century, a sawmill used to be run here. It was of utmost importance for the regional (forestal) industry. Still nowadays there can be seen relicts of its buildings. Lago Deseado Tierra del Fuego Nature
The boat ride to Bahía La Paciencia is a real adventure in itself, which we won’t forget so easily. Due to its geographic location and orientation, there are often strong winds blowing over the Almirantazgo Fjord. Also on the day of our excursion, the sea is rough. Therefore it’s already quite a challenge even to get to the main boat by means of a small dinghy. Once on board, we have to endure 2 hours of rocking and shaking, and we may not lose heart by the permanent splashes of spray. However, it is well worth the effort. We can spend a few hours in Bahía La Paciencia, exploring and enjoying the great nature.
Lodge Deseado
The Lodge Deseado is an ideal place for soaking up this amazing environment. The area of Lago Deseado offers a huge range of wildlife, geography, history and culture. It would be a pity to come here only for a day. The weather is – typically for this region – variable, humid and also in summertime rather chilly, if not cold. However, the warm hospitality and the delicious, locally influenced cuisine make you forget all the strains, as soon as you approach the welcoming timber constructions. The young team meets the guests always with a sincere smile, is considerate and service-based. The infrastructure impresses with its stunning quality.
Who takes the long way to Lago Deseado shall schedule at least 4 or 5 days there. And even like this, there’s a high chance that at the moment of departure, you’ll have an overwhelming itch to come back as soon as possible for going on exploring this area. To us, at least, it happened so.
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